Acta Universitatis Carolinae Kinanthropologica (AUC Kinanthropologica) is an international peer reviewed journal for the publication of research outcomes in the humanities, the social sciences and the natural sciences, as applied to kinathropology. It is a multidisciplinary journal accepting only original unpublished articles in English in the various sub-disciplines and related fields of kinanthropology, such as Anthropology, Anthropomotorics, Sports Pedagogy, Sociology of Sport, Philosophy of Sport, History of Sport, Physiology of Sport And Exercise, Physical Education, Applied Physical Education, Physiotherapy, Human Biomechanics, Psychology of Sport, Sports Training and Coaching, Sport Management, etc. The journal also welcomes interdisciplinary articles. The journal also includes reports of relevant activities and reviews of relevant publications.
The journal is abstracted and indexed by CNKI, DOAJ, EBSCO, ERIH PLUS, SPOLIT, SPORTDiscus, and Ulrichsweb.
AUC KINANTHROPOLOGICA, Vol 51 No 2 (2015), 48–55
Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers
Jan Kodejška, Michail L. Michailov, Jiří Baláš
DOI: https://doi.org/10.14712/23366052.2015.31
zveřejněno: 16. 02. 2016
Abstract
Background. Bouldering and lead climbing are divergent disciplines of the sport of rock climbing. Bouldering moves are short and powerful, whilst sport climbing is longer and require a greater degree of endurance. Aim. The aim of this study was to compare forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contraction between lead climbers (LC) and boulderers (BO). Methods. Eight BO and twelve LC completed maximal finger flexor strength test and sustained contractions to exhaustion at 60% of maximum voluntary contraction (MVC). Differences between BO and LC in maximal strength, time to exhaustion, force time integral (FTI), and tissue oxygenation (SmO2) were assessed by t-test for independent samples. Results. LC showed significantly lower level of average tissue oxygenation (BO 38.9% SmO2, s = 7.4; LC 28.7% SmO2, s = 7.1) and maximal tissue deoxygenation (BO 25.6% SmO2, s = 8.2; LC 13.5% SmO2, s = 8.5). LC demonstrated significantly lower finger flexor strength (519 N, s = 72) than BO (621 N, s = 142). LC sustained a longer time of contraction (not significantly) (BO 52.2 s, s = 11.5; LC 60.6 s, s = 13) and achieved a similar value of FTI (BO 17421 Ns, s = 4291; LO 17476 Ns, s = 5036) in the endurance test. Conclusions. The results showed lower deoxygenation during sustained contraction in BO than LC despite similar FTI, indicating different local metabolic pathways in both groups.
klíčová slova: muscle oxygenation; isometric contraction; continuous test; sport climbing; bouldering; lead climbing
reference (25)
1. Amca, A. M., Vigouroux, L., Aritan, S. & Berton, E. (2012). Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 30(7), 669–677. CrossRef PubMed
2. Baláš, J., Mrskoč, J., Panáčková, M. & Draper, N. (2015). Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers. Sports Technology, 7(3–4), 151–158.
3. Baláš, J., Panáčková, M., Kodejška, J., Cochrane, D. & Martin, A. J. (2014). The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport, 14(2), 345–354.
4. Baláš, J., Pecha, O., Martin, A. J. & Cochrane, D. (2012). Hand-arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. European Journal of Sport Science, 12(1), 16–25. CrossRef
5. Draper, N., Giles, D., Schöffl, V. et al. (2015). Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement. Sports Technology. doi: 10.1080/19346182.2015.1107081
6. Fanchini, M., Violette, F., Impellizzeri, F. M. & Maffiuletti, N. A. (2013). Differences in climbing-specific strength between boulder and lead rock climbers. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 27(2), 310–314. CrossRef PubMed
7. Ferguson, C. J. (2009). An Effect Size Primer: A Guide for Clinicians and Researchers. Professional Psychology: Research and Practice, 40(5), 532–538. CrossRef
8. Ferguson, R. A. & Brown, M. D. (1997). Arterial blood pressure and forearm vascular conductance responses to sustained and rhythmic isometric exercise and arterial occlusion in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects. European Journal of Applied Physiology & Occupational Physiology, 76(2), 174–180. CrossRef PubMed
9. Ferrari, M., Mottola, L. & Quaresima, V. (2004). Principles, techniques, and limitations of near infrared spectroscopy. Canadian Journal of Applied Physiology-Revue Canadienne De Physiologie Appliquee, 29(4), 463–487. CrossRef PubMed
10. Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Lucero, A. et al. (2015). Haemodynamic kinetics and intermittent finger flexor performance in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 36(2), 137–142. PubMed
11. Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Scarrott, C. et al. (2015). Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 33(5), 518–526. CrossRef PubMed
12. Fryer, S. M., Stoner, L., Dickson, T. G. et al. (2015). Oxygen Recovery Kinetics in the Forearm Flexors of Multiple Ability Groups of Rock Climbers. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 29(6), 1633–1639. CrossRef PubMed
13. Grant, S., Hynes, V., Whittaker, A. & Aitchison, T. (1996). Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 14(4), 301–309. CrossRef PubMed
14. Macdonald, J. H. & Callender, N. (2011). Athletic Profile of Highly Accomplished Boulderers. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine, 22(2), 140–143. CrossRef PubMed
15. MacLeod, D., Sutherland, D. L., Buntin, L. et al. (2007). Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. Journal of sports sciences, 25(12), 1433–1443. CrossRef PubMed
16. Mermier, C. M., Robergs, R. A., McMinn, S. M. & Heyward, V. H. (1997). Energy expenditure and physiological responses during indoor rock climbing. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 31, 224–228. CrossRef PubMed PubMed Central
17. Michailov, M. (2014). Workload characteristics, performance limiting factors and methods for strength and endurance training in rock climbing. Medicina Sportiva, 18(3), 97–106. PubMed Central
18. Michailov, M., Mladenov, L. & Schöffl, V. (2009). Anthropometric and strength characteristics of world-class boulderers. Medicina Sportiva, 13(4), 231–238. CrossRef PubMed Central
19. Philippe, M., Wegst, D., Muller, T., Raschner, C. & Burtscher, M. (2012). Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 112(8), 2839–2847. CrossRef PubMed PubMed Central
20. Quaresima, V., Lepanto, R. & Ferrari, M. (2003). The use of near infrared spectroscopy in sports medicine. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness, 43(1), 1–13. PubMed PubMed Central
21. Schweizer, A. & Hudek, R. (2011). Kinetics of Crimp and Slope Grip in Rock Climbing. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 27(2), 116–121. PubMed PubMed Central
22. Sheel, A. W. (2004). Physiology of sport rock climbing. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 38, 355–359. CrossRef PubMed PubMed Central
23. Thompson, E., Farrow, L., Hunt, J., Lewis, M. & Ferguson, R. A. (2014). Brachial artery characteristics and microvascular filtration capacity in rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 15(4), 296–304. CrossRef PubMed PubMed Central
24. Watts, P. B. (2004). Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 91, 361–372. CrossRef PubMed PubMed Central
25. White, D. J. & Olsen, P. D. (2010). A time motion analysis of bouldering style competitive rock climbing. Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 24(5), 1356–1360. CrossRef PubMed PubMed Central
157 x 230 mm
vychází: 2 x ročně
cena tištěného čísla: 190 Kč
ISSN: 1212-1428
E-ISSN: 2336-6052
