Acta Universitatis Carolinae Kinanthropologica (AUC Kinanthropologica) is an international peer reviewed journal for the publication of research outcomes in the humanities, the social sciences and the natural sciences, as applied to kinathropology. It is a multidisciplinary journal accepting only original unpublished articles in English in the various sub-disciplines and related fields of kinanthropology, such as Anthropology, Anthropomotorics, Sports Pedagogy, Sociology of Sport, Philosophy of Sport, History of Sport, Physiology of Sport And Exercise, Physical Education, Applied Physical Education, Physiotherapy, Human Biomechanics, Psychology of Sport, Sports Training and Coaching, Sport Management, etc. The journal also welcomes interdisciplinary articles. The journal also includes reports of relevant activities and reviews of relevant publications.
The journal is abstracted and indexed by CNKI, DOAJ, EBSCO, ERIH PLUS, SPOLIT, SPORTDiscus, and Ulrichsweb.
AUC KINANTHROPOLOGICA, Vol 47 No 1 (2011), 26–33
Anthropometric and Strength Characteristics in Young and Adult Elite Climbers
Jiří Baláš, Ladislav Vomáčko, Barbora Strejcová
published online: 04. 02. 2015
abstract
Anthropometric and Strength Characteristics in Young and Adult Elite Climbers The aim of the study was to assess anthropometric and strength characteristics in young and adult elite climbers. Twenty two young (12 boys, 10 girls) and fifty nine adult (45 males, 14 females) climbers with the climbing ability ranging from 7+ to 10+ on the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) scale took part in the study. Despite no differences in climbing ability among male and female young and adult athletes (median: 8+ on UIAA scale in all four groups), young male and female climbers had higher ECM/ BCM ratio (males 0.81, s = 0.08; females 0.92, s = 0.08), were stronger in finger-hang test (males 74.7, s = 22.0 s; females 81.6, s = 27.2), had less climbing experience (males 4.7, s = 2.4 years; females 4.7, s = 1.9 years) than adult climbers within the same sex (males ECM/BCM 0.72, s = 0.07; finger hang 60.2, s = 16.9 s; experience 9.0, s = 6.6 years; females ECM/BCM 0.82, s = 0.12; finger hang 57.2, s = 17.5 s; experience 6.9, s = 2.2 years). The enhanced finger endurance in youth is probably compensated by better technique and tactic of a climb in adult climbers. There were no significant differences in body fat percentage, bent-arm hang test results, grip strength and metres climbed per week. Antropometrické a silové charakteristiky mladých dospělých vrcholových horolezců Cílem této studie bylo posoudit antropometrické a silové charakteristiky mladých a dospělých vrcholových lezců. Studie se zúčastnilo 22 mladých (12 chlapců, 10 dívek) a 59 dospělých (45 mužů, 14 žen) lezců s lezeckým výkonem 7+ až 10+ na UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) stupnici. Ačkoli měli mladí i dospělí lezci a lezkyně stejnou lezeckou výkonnost (medián 8+ UIAA pro všechny skupiny), chlapci i dívky měli vyšší poměr ECM/BCM (chlapci 0.81, s = 0.08; dívky 0.92, s = 0.08), delší čas výdrže ve visu na liště (chlapci 74.7, s = 22.0 s; dívky 81.6, s = 27.2), kratší lezeckou zkušenost (chlapci 4.7, s = 2.4 let; dívky 4.7, s = 1.9 let) než dospělí lezci stejného pohlaví (muži ECM/BCM 0.72, s = 0.07; vis na liště 60.2, s = 16.9 s; zkušenost 9.0, s = 6.6 let; ženy ECM/BCM 0.82, s = 0.12; vis na liště 57.2, s = 17.5 s; zkušenost 6.9, s = 2.2 let). Zvýšená úroveň svalové vytrvalosti u mladých lezců je pravděpodobně kompenzována lepší lezeckou technikou a taktikou u dospělých. Neshledali jsme významné rozdíly v podílu tělesného tuku, výsledcích výdrže ve shybu, síly stisku ruky a počtu nalezených metrů týdně.
keywords: sport climbing; youth; strength sportovní lezení; mládež; silové schopnosti
157 x 230 mm
periodicity: 2 x per year
print price: 190 czk
ISSN: 1212-1428
E-ISSN: 2336-6052
